Saba is The Doggie Den's only Norwegian Elkhound client. She's been coming to play with us since she was a pup and (rightly?) believes she owns the place. She's big, cuddly, easy to please, and, well, opinionated on certain matters. She has a gorgeous coat and a noble head to go with her personality.

Dominance

There are few concepts that dog owners talk about more than "dominance". Every behavior in the book gets attributed to this trait: nipping, leash pulling, humping, body checks during play, and on and on. The minute a behavior disturbs or frightens someone, the dominance devil rears his ugly head.

Let's start with the assumption that we all want what we want, including dogs. So if Fluffy sees that Fido has a cute squeaky toy that he's loathe to share , she's going to challenge him, bark at him, flirt with him, distract him and/or simply grab the toy. If she opts for the more aggressive tactics (like challenging with a stiff body, a hard glare and a growl; or grabbing the toy) she will likely be labeled dominant (argh...). People seem to labor under the misconception that some dogs are hardwired to try to take charge in every situation. I swear, some of our clients think their dogs lie awake at night reviewing their game plan for daily dominance.

It's an easy answer and it helps people to sound knowledgeable. Unfortunately, more often than not, it's the wrong answer. If every undesirable behavior could be reduced to dominance, training your pup not to indulge in same would involve simply overpowering her in each naughty instance. In case anyone is wondering, that doesn't work. The dog may learn to submit (maybe) but only when you're in her face. And she won't learn to obey. Try using power tactics when your dog sees a squirrel and takes off! You'll be lucky if she even notices you.

Most of your pup's behavior is driven by either instinct or conditioning.

Instinct includes fear responses of fight and flight; hunting, (which frequently manifests itself as nipping at or mouthing other animals, including your cat); playing; seeking company (either people or other dogs); and guarding resources, like food. There is a hunting instinct called "predatory drift" whereby a perfectly nice dog will automatically attack (and often try to kill) a smaller animal, especially if the smaller guy moves suddenly, or scoots. These behaviors aren't driven by a desire for status. They're traits carried on from ancestors, or traits that humans have selectively bred for in order to enable the dog to perform a given task successfully. Some breeds of hunting dogs are bred to disable prey quickly and efficiently. Some herding breeds are genetically programmed to nip at other animals on the run to get them going in a certain direction. But very little of your dog's behavior is driven by her need to fancy herself the leader of the pack. Dogs don't have the capacity for that sort of self congratulation. However, they may indeed try to rule the roost if you let them do whatever they want and/or give in to tantrums on their part. I have clients who think it's cute that their dog whines and barks when anyone takes "his spot" on the couch. Not cute. One day a child may visit you and take that seat; his mom will not be delighted when your mastiff barks menacingly.

Behaviors that come from conditioning are those that have gotten your dog what she wants. For example, she may have learned that shoving her muzzle into your hand will get you to stroke her. Sometimes we mean to condition our pups (like when you give a treat if a dog obeys a command) and sometimes we don't even know we're doing it. For instance, if your pup pulls on his leash and you continue to allow him to move forward (what he wants) he's going to pull you every time you snap on his leash. If, on the other hand, he is pulled back by your side and made to stand or sit for a moment every time he pulls, he will learn to do what you want, which is to move forward at a pace that leaves some slack in the leash. That is, IF you're consistent about praising him lavishly (and or treating) every time he moves forward at the pace that YOU set. BTW, with high energy dogs and puppies, it's a good idea to trot or run with your leashed dog at your side at first, so he doesn't have to contain too much frustration!

That said, there is such a thing as social hierarchy, whether we're talking about dog packs, families and their pets, or large corporations. The reason is obvious: social hierarchy is a structure that helps get the group focused on the task at hand, whether it's people making widgets or dogs sharing food without killing one another. In the social hierarchy of dogs, it's not the lead dog or "alpha" that's likely to exhibit aggression. On the contrary, it's the middle ranking dogs that challenge, contest and try to punish. Dogs will follow a leader that doesn't have to exhibit aggression because she is confident in her strength and can get others to obey with a look. Think of those nature films about wild dogs where the alpha will change an underling's behavior simply by staring at him. It is extremely rare that alpha dogs in the wild use force to asset their authority.

So, if your dog growls at any other dog that comes near you, it's likely because she's a feisty middle ranker. If you have a truly dominant dog, he'll be able to get other dogs to back away from you simply by staring. His look will say, "Did you just approach my person without asking?" And, the middle ranker will usually respond by either going away, or asking to approach in a submissive manner, like crouching down and inching slowly toward your alpha dog, always staying lower than him.

Now the REAL question is not whether your dog is dominant or not. It's WHO INFLUENCES WHOSE BEHAVIOR?!! Do you throw your dog's toy because he's barking at you? Yup, he's got you trained. No complaints when he won't do what you want!!

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No sweets for the sweeties!

Holiday time is yucky poop time at The Doggie Den. Not fun! This time of year customers - and especially their kids - insist on giving dogs holiday "treats" that pups cannot digest. It's no treat for the dogs a few hours later, and even less for us when they come to daycare! Not something you get used too, cleaning up that kind of mess several times a day. So I gripe. It helps.

For us the rich holiday goodies may result in a few extra pounds. The cookies, cake, candy, Christmas breads, etc... oooo la la! This time of the year I'm afraid of my bathroom scale! But the consequences for our canine companions are much greater, especially if they ingest too much chocolate. In any form, ranging from one-ounce baking squares to hand-dipped truffles to intense home-made cakes or brownies, chocolate contains theobromine and caffeine, both methylxanthines than can cause stimulation of the central nervous system, an increase in heart rate and tremors. Clinical signs - vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, hyperactivity, and increased thirst, urination and heart rate - can be seen with the ingestion of as little as 2 ounces of baking chocolate by a 10 lb dog.

Thinking sugar-free is okay? It may be a healthier choice for us (and I'm not even sure about that!) but gum or candies made with xylitol can make dogs ill. If they ingest significant amounts, they may develop a sudden drop in blood sugar, resulting in depression, loss of coordination and seizures. Also, data from the ASPCA Poison Control Center appears to point to a link between xylitol and liver failure in dogs.

So take care to keep sweets out of your pup's reach - and don't let them in the kitchen unsupervised if you're baking or have left goodies on counters. If you suspect your pup may have eaten chocolate, candies containing xylitol, or any other potentially poisonous substance, CALL YOUR VETERINARIAN OR THE ANIMAL POISON CONTROL CENTER HOTLINE FOR 24 HOUR TELEPHONE ASSISTANCE: 888-426-4435.

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Holiday Pet Safety

Goodness, gracious me, but time does fly. It's been weeks long since I blogged! Good to be back, because with the holiday season in full swing, I just have to talk about pet safety.

Courtesy of the Humane Society, here are some important tips:

'Til the season to decorate our homes with live Christmas trees and other holiday greenery. But did you know that some of these yuletide traditions can be hazardous to your pet's health?

* Lovely lilies are commonly used in holiday floral arrangements, but many varieties - inluding Tiger, Asian, Japaneses Show, Stargazer and the Casa Blanca - can cause kidney failure in cats if ingested.

* Bag the boughs of holly and mistletoe. Sure, they add a nice touch to your holiday decor, but holly can cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and lethargy if eaten by your pet. And should he or she sample mistletoe, he/she could suffer gastrointestinal upset and cardiovascular problems. Opt for just-as-jolly artificial plants made from silk or plastic.

* Christmas tree water may contain fertilizers that can cause stomach upset. Stagnant tree water is a breeding ground for bacteria, and your pet could end up with nausea or diarrhea should he or she imbibe.

* Although the potential toxicity of poinsettias is generally overstated, these showy holiday plans can irritate your pet's mouth, and may cause nausea and/or vomiting.

If you suspect that your animal companion has eaten a potentially toxic substance, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 for round-the-clock telephone assistance.



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Household toxins that kill

I don't know how we raised pets when we were kids, because no one ever told us all the stuff that I currently know, yet my family had a healthy cat and a healthy dog, both of which 'made old bones'. But the ASPCA says that incidents of pets ingesting household and backyard poisons is increasing. Perhaps there are more products around that are made with poisonous ingredients; or maybe busy families forget to supervise dogs and/or leave cabinets open. At any rate I read the amazing statistic that incidences of poisoning with polyurethane glue have risen 740% since 2002 (see Petsitusa link)!!

Autumn brings particular dangers like lawn treatments and antifreeze. Fertilizers continue to be a danger in the fall for those who plant bulbs. Cleaning products are always a hazard. Many plants are toxic to dogs and cats, so as you bring plants inside for the winter, check with the Poison Control Center (phone number below). All toxic products should be keep in sealed plastic containers, like the ones you can buy at Walmart for not much money. Drop your bag of bulb fertilizer in a plastic container and make sure the top is firmly set. Same with plastic bottles containing fluids like cleaners and antifreeze. If you winterize your car yourself, make sure to clean up any spills promptly and keep the dog out of your work area! A tip I recently learned: antifreeze containing propylene glycol is less toxic than antifreeze made with ethylene glycol. But both will make your pup or kitty ill!

Salts and chemicals used to melt ice are a definite cold weather problem for pets. Walking on ice melts that contain calcium chloride and/or table salt can cause skin irritation. Chemicals used in ice melts can cause pets who lick their paws to experience vomiting, decreased muscle function and in severe cases, seizures, coma and death. Better to use benign substances like the product "SafePaw", or even ashes or sand in area where you pet walks.

If you think your pet has ingested a dangerous substance, contact your vet on an emergency basis or immediately call the ASPCA Animal Poison control Center at 1-888-426-4435.

Household toxins that kill

I don't know how we raised pets when we were kids, because no one ever told us all the stuff that I currently know, yet my family had a healthy cat and a healthy dog, both of which 'made old bones'. But the ASPCA says that incidents of pets ingesting household and backyard poisons is increasing. Perhaps there are more products around that are made with poisonous ingredients; or maybe busy families forget to supervise dogs and/or leave cabinets open. At any rate I read the amazing statistic that incidences of poisoning with polyurethane glue have risen 740% since 2002 (see Petsitusa link)!!

Autumn brings particular dangers like lawn treatments and antifreeze. Fertilizers continue to be a danger in the fall for those who plant bulbs. Cleaning products are always a hazard. Many plants are toxic to dogs and cats, so as you bring plants inside for the winter, check with the Poison Control Center (phone number below). All toxic products should be keep in sealed plastic containers, like the ones you can buy at Walmart for not much money. Drop your bag of bulb fertilizer in a plastic container and make sure the top is firmly set. Same with plastic bottles containing fluids like cleaners and antifreeze. If you winterize your car yourself, make sure to clean up any spills promptly and keep the dog out of your work area! A tip I recently learned: antifreeze containing propylene glycol is less toxic than antifreeze made with ethylene glycol. But both will make your pup or kitty ill!

If you think your pet has ingested a dangerous substance, contact your vet on an emergency basis or immediately call the ASPCA Animal Poison control Center at 1-888-426-4435.

Dog Care for the Dog Days

August, the dog days of summer, time to take special care with our canine companions. Remember, dogs overheat MUCH faster than their humans! In August heat, they rapidly become dehydrated, so please, everyone TAKE WATER AND A VESSEL TO DRINK FROM WHEN YOU'RE OUT WITH YOUR DOG! This summer, as usual, we have had news of many accidental deaths from the heat. A dog officer who didn't check her kennel for a whole weekend. A veterinarian whose overnight kenneling facility was insufficiently air conditioned. And on and on. There have been incidences this summer of dogs dying in closed cars in a matter of MINUTES. It's hard to believe but it's true. They go into shock, their systems shut down, and they die. It only take s a few minutes in 90 degree weather for the inside of a previously air conditioned car to heat up to 200 degrees or more. For creatures with fur coats that means instant hyperthermia, heat shock.

If you see an animal in a closed car when it's over 70 degrees outside, report the situation to your local police immediately so they can find the owner and/or forcibly open the vehicle. Symptoms of hyperthermia are rapid, shallow breathing, disorientation, staggering, seizures, lethargy, and weakness. If you're witha dog who has overheated, immerse him or her in cool (NOT COLD) water immediately. If that's not possible, put cool, wet towels or fabric under the dog's arms and in his/her groin, and then cover the dog with a wet towel or blanket. And get him or her to a veterinarian immediately.

Here are some hot weather tips from the MASS SPCA:

• Keep pets at home vs taking them in the car.
• Exercise them early in the morning or later at night.
• Make sure they have plenty of fresh water. Rinse and refill at least daily.
• Leave pets in air conditioned spaces or use fans to keep them cool.
• Be sure window screens are strong and tight to prevent accidental escapes.
• Think twice before taking your dog to the beach unless it's early morning or late evening.
• Remember that breeds with short noses, like bulldogs, boxers and pugs can have extra trouble breathing in hot weather. Never exercise them in the heat of the day.

Looks this is my toy, buster! 

When does that refrigerator open anyhow? 

We big guys need a snooze! 

Hiya little ones! 

Fun 'n Frolics at The Doggie Den 

Traveling with your dog

Summertime is travel time and often we want our canine companions to enjoy vacation with us. Busy families sometimes forget that Pup-Pup needs to be provided for on vacation just like the kids, so here are some tips about traveling with your pet.

When traveling by car, make sure to make multiple rest stops to prevent accidents or restless behavior in the car. Remember to leash Pup-Pup BEFORE you open the car doors! The dog rescue groups that we work with get too many dogs found wandering on turnpikes. Purchase a canine seatbelt and make a couple of trial runs in your neighborhood to allow your dog to adjust to the new restraint. Most pet stores carry one or more styles of canine seatbelts. While you're packing for the kids, prepare a doggie travel kit that includes: food, bottled water, bowls, treats, favorite toy, blanket, and plastic bags suitable for poop pick-up and disposal. Also include complete copies of his health record in Pup-Pup's travel kit and don't forget an extra collar with all the necessary identification info in case he loses the one he has on. As part of your travel planning, check ahead for pet friendly hotels and campgrounds. This can be done at www.petswelcome.com.

If you're traveling with your pet by plane, make sure to get complete information ahead of time from your airline. Find out if your pet is small enough to travel in the cabin with you, and what you need to do to facilitate that. Most airlines require advance reservations for pets traveling in the passenger cabin and there's usually a pre-paid fee. Some airlines require you to rent or purchase their in-flight carriers. On travel day, allow lots of extra time at the airport to go through check-in and security with your dog.

Larger dogs cannot travel in the passenger cabin and must fly separately as cargo. There are many risks associated with this practice and most vets and pet professionals don't recommend it especially if it's only for a vacation. The least of the evils is that it's a very unpleasant experience for the dog, and problems multiply from there, including dogs that get lost like luggage, or are injured or killed by in-flight conditions. I'm not trying to be an alarmist here; I just know of many people who've lost dogs who flew in cargo. If you have to fly with a large dog, hold food at least 6 hours prior to flight to avoid vomiting and/or diarhhea, both of which are common problems in-flight. It's not a bad idea to ask your regular veterinarian if a sedative or anti-nausea medication is appropriate.

Does your dog have a behavior problem??

How we raise, train and socialize our dogs has a huge impact on how they behave. If they have been well treated, all dogs, regardless of breed, have the potential to be well-behaved, and pleasant to live with. Getting a dog there may be more difficult with some than with others, depending on their natural tendencies. For example, labrador retrievers have the potential to be wonderful family dogs. However they have a HUGE amount of energy when they're young, and if not strenuously exercised on a regular basis they tend to be nudgy, nervous, clumsy, bossy, and generally a pain in the neck.

So when does a dog's behavior become a problem? Sometimes it obvious, like if she steals food off "people surfaces" (counters, tables). Or jumps on every guest who comes to your house. However, sometimes we wonder if our pup is behaving "normally", meaning are they behaviorally healthy?? For example, what about a dog who startles easily? Or one who cannot stand to let you out of his sight? Or we might wonder if its normal for Fluffy to pee on the living room rug when there are workmen in the house.

Here are some indicators of canine behavioral health:

• Friendly toward people she meets, including well-behaved children.
• Friendly toward other friendly dogs, both those he lives with and those outside the family.
• Will readily give up control of food, toys, and other desired objects.
• Can be left alone for reasonable periods of time without panicking.
• Is relaxed during normal, everyday handling and touching: wiping her feet, brushing her coat, looking in her ears, looking in her eyes.
• Calms down quickly after being startled if there's no cause for alarm.
• Barks when necessary or appropriate, but will stop when told to.
• Plays well without becoming too rough.
• Doesn't damage his owner's possessions.
• Is affectionate without being needy, clingy, or annoying.
• Can adapt to changes such as travel, movement, confinement to a carrier with minimal problems.

If your dog doesn't meet half or more of these criteria, she needs help, preferably from a trained canine behaviorist who's willing to meet with you and your pet in your home to determine what factors might be altered to support changes her behavior. Of course, all of the criteria are not of equal importance. If your dog growls at friendly strangers, he needs immediate help, even if he meets all of the other criteria. Some of the criteria on the list may be less important to you than others, depending on your lifestyle. For example, if you have small children it is crucial that your dog not guard his possessions. Toddlers must be able to approach a pet that is eating without getting bitten! On the other hand, if you live in the country and/or your neighbors don't complain, you may be tolerating an abnormal amount of barking, simply because you've never trained your dog to stop when told.

And, no it's not healthy for a pet to pee on the carpet when there's a stranger in the house, or for her to leap up in a fright when someone drops something nearby.

Does your dog have a behavior problem??

How we raise, train and socialize our dogs has a huge impact on how they behave. All dogs, regardless of breed, have the potential to be well-behaved, and pleasant to live with. Getting a dog there may be more difficult with some than with others, depending on their natural tendencies. For example, labrador retrievers have the potential to be wonderful family dogs. However they have a HUGE amount of energy when they're young, and if not strenuously exercised on a regular basis they tend to be nudgy, nervous, clumsy, and generally a pain in the neck to their owners.

So when does a dog's behavior become a problem?

New Guy on the Block: GP with Saba and Zack 

Tick Tock!

Warm weather has come to the northeast United States and about time! But wait! It's also tick time!! Oh, no. Those disgusting parasites that dig in and blow up and look gross and you have to pull them out with your fingernails and kill them in rubbling alcohol or hydrogen paroxide or something. And like all their parasite friends, they lay zillions of eggs that get in your carpeting and your furniture and your car. There's a huge list of pet owners who want to ask God, was he the one who created ticks... and if so, why???

The good part is that enterprising humans have created spot-on liquids that you dribble onto your pet's skin and the ticks AND fleas stay away. Even their eggs become useless. The treatments (Frontline Plus, Program, Advantix, to name a few) make your pet's blood toxic to the parasites without hurting him/her. You can buy the treatments in pet stores. Or, hey, at The Doggie Den!! The brighter ticks and fleas "smell" the substance through the dog's skin and head for the hills. I don't know how they sense things, never met a tick that could explain it in plain English. Anyway, after you dribble the medicine onto your dog's skin, it's absorbed into his/her bloodstream and stays effective for 60-80 days. So about once a month throughout the warm seasons, apply a recognized treatment and your life will become blessedly tickless. Flealess too.

The bad part is that if you don't do something, you and your family are at risk for flea and tick-borne diseases, especially lyme disease. Can you imagine? You're sick AND you have to pull those gross lumps out of your pet's coat? Not an option, if you ask me. Make sure your family and your pets are protected.

Last thing: it's also mosquito season which we used to think was annoying but harmless. Come to find out mosquitos spread heartworm, a horrible parasite that entwines itself in the heart tissue of dogs and cats! It's hard to cure an animal that contracts heart worm, so be sure to ask your vet to test your pet then prescribe the right medicine. Don't wait! Unlike treatments for fleas and ticks, most heartworm medicine has to be prescribed by a veterinarian.

A delighted Doggie Den customer

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The Dog Days of January

Hello Dog Lovers!

Happy New Year and best wishes for 2006! Health, play buddies, and goodies for the dogs.

It's been a while since my last post. We've been busy beavers... oops! pups since the holidays. We're beefing up our obedience training offerings and getting a speaker/special event schedule going for 2006. But I can't let any more time go by without talking about what mid-winter is like for our canine companions. To cut to the chase, it's not a great time. Some breeds like the snow, especially when it's fresh (like labs and goldens) but many have problems. And even the snow lovers bear watching in freezing temps.

In doggie daycare we notice that both small and large dogs pee and poop indoors more than in mild weather. Often we'll take everybody out to the yard for a while, then several guests will squat as soon as they come back in. One of the problems is that they get interested in playing in the snow and forget to do their business. Not much to do about that except to discourage the playing and praise them generously when they do perform. Another problem is that muscles tend to contract in the cold so the urethera and bowels kind of go on "hold".... as it were. Then in the nice warm indoors, they relax, and voila! We try to break up play as soon as it starts until the dogs perform - that is before they tense up with the cold. Also we give treats for outdoor performance when it's below freezing. The praise and treats tend to get the non-performers imitating the others.

During the mid-winter months, our groomers tend to see undiagnosed frostbite and/or dry, cracked toe pads. No matter the breed, dogs should not be outdoors for more than a few minutes in 20 degree weather, unless of course they wear Mukluks or other dog boots. You'll notice that Alaskan sled dogs are always booted - it cuts down on wear and tear and prevents frostbite during long mushes. Even if you're careful, though, your pup's pads are likely to dry out, partly from dry air and partly from the salt on sidewalks, streets, and parking lots. Fastidious owners who have time, clean their dog's feet after exposure to salt, but most of us probably don't. The best remedy is fast and cheap. Rub a good lubricant into pup-pup's pads - all 20 of them! We use vaseline and it works great. I rub it into Benny and Daphne's pads once a week when we're watching TV and they never have a problem in spite of extensive exposure to salt (and I'm not a fastidious mom, either).

Also, make sure to give your pup plenty of water, particularly after they've been outside. Cold dry air dehydrates them, and sometimes they need water even if they don't feel thirsty. I urge Benny and Daphne to drink fresh, just-poured water after we've been outside, and they usually bite - ur slurp, I mean. Once they taste the water, they realize they're thirsty.

Pup-Pup enjoys her holiday gift